Hello! I have been making progress on the Polonaise en fourreau. What I am working on now is the back piece. The back is one piece of fabric that starts with a dart from the neck to waist (1/4" to 2") then pleated while on the body to create the shaped 'V' and then the inverted pleat at the 'tail-bone'. This was done with the fashion fabric. The lining is a rectangle cut the length of neck to waist and darted just the same but not pleated.
|The lining is folded and darted. It is then attached to the fashion fabric which is darted then pleated and pinned in place.|
|The pinned pleats - I ironed them to help me keep it even.|
|Detail of pleats pinned.|
|Sewing through all layers I am using a Mantua stitch. I think mine are too close and tight. Not sure.|
|When you are done the inside looks like this.|
|Detail: The stitches.|
I am using linen thread. It is thicker than regular modern cotton covered poly threads we have now. This was borrowed from a friend till I can order what I need from Burnley and Trowbridge.
Next up: Finish stitching down the pleats, then cut and put the sleeves together. The sleeves were draped on my arm - using an extra piece of lining fabric and I will use it as a pattern.